The original bags of cement were produced from flour and a ground chalk material. As they are now around 50 years old and are probably unfit for purpose they are best retained as part of the original kit to be preserved.
As all the models I build are considered semi-permanent I use Power Pritt Stick. This dissolves at 40 deg C and therefore, if required the bricks can be soaked and re-used as originally intended. This adhesive is simple and easy to use and requires no mixing. It is advisable to keep the top on when not in use or it will go off quite quickly. It has a slightly rubbery texture when dry so has a little 'give' so that completed models are a little less brittle and therefore more durable.
For the builder who wants to re-use the bricks a more suitable adhesive is 'School Glue', a washable PVA which is readily available at several outlets including the Early Learning Centres, Hobbystores, Toys R Us etc. It sticks the bricks firmly and is every bit as strong as the original Brickplayer cement. When soaked in hot water the bricks fall apart and are easily cleaned up.
In my childhood we used flour and water as it was cheap and readily available.
Most tubes of roofing cement will be rock hard and unusable by now. As I recall it was pretty awful stuff to use anyway. I now use Aliphatic Resin, white PVA type glue which I also use for model aircraft construction. Any PVA type wood glue will be OK.
Doors and windows, both metal and plastic are secured with Power Pritt Stick.
I make a solid base board, usually from MDF off cuts obtained cheaply from Homebase for each model. I cover the original plan with grease-proof paper to prevent damage and make it easy to remove.
I have ground plans for all the models listed on the spreadsheet and all the Contemporary ones not yet built.
Although everyone will have there own building style here is how I build my models.
I pin the ground plan to the MDF baseboard and cover with greaseproof using drawing pins.
I then proceed to fix the 1st course of bricks together with any windows / doors as appropriate with Pritt Stick.
I then build up 3 or four courses of bricks at each corner and ensure they are vertical and square using a couple of set squares. I then dry fit they the intermediate bricks to ensure a good fit and dimensional accuracy before fixing permanently in place. I shorten any bricks that are too long with a course file, not forgetting to redress the corner chamfer. The use of a solid straight edge is essential. As stated in the original instruction books, any variations in the thickness of the bricks can be corrected with the thickness of the adhesive.